This is helpful because it will determine which side of the line your place the thickness of the blade (the kerf). A trick I use is to draw a small X on the side of the line that will be the cut-off (scrap) piece of remaining wood. You’ve made your measurements, and you’ve drawn a line on the board. So you’ve determined what type of cut you need to make. Here’s a quick youtube video showing the basics: Make sure you understand these angles well before doing a crown molding job. This can be complicated to figure out, so most saws have positive stops for the blade at common angles used in compound miter cuts for crown molding.
This is common in crown molding when the piece is installed at an angle and still has to join flush with the adjacent piece at corners of the wall. This would describe the 4th image on the diagram above. You would adjust your miter angle and bevel angle, lock them both in place, and make the cut. This is simply a combination of both bevel and miter cuts. Depending on which one, you would either adjust the bevel from left leaning to right-leaning, or in case you have a single bevel saw, you would flip the board around to make this change. This type of cut would be used for doing baseboards around a corner of a wall, an outside corner or inside corner. The blade will lean left or right, and cut through the wood to create an angle cut along the edge of the board, while the cut through the face is still 90 degrees. Most miter saws can adjust from 0 degrees, up to 45 degrees or slightly over, either to the left or to the right. This cut angle is created by adjusting the miter gauge in front of the saw, from side to side. This, for example, would be used when cutting a door casing at the top corners. This is an angled cut on the face of the board, but on the edge, it still cuts through at 90 degrees. This is a common cut when building furniture, framing up a wall, or cutting a rough board down to size to make it easier to work with, before doing finish cuts. This type of cut is used for shortening a board down to size and leaving the edge at a perfect 90 degrees, in both planes, to the length of the board. This is done with the saw in the upright, 0-degree position, on both the bevel and the miter gauges. This is a 90 degree cut across the grain of the board. See diagram here to determine what cut you’ll need to make: This adjustment is set by releasing the adjustment knob and either rotating the cut bed for a miter cut, or tilting the saw with a bevel, or both for compound. Now depending on the type of cut you’ll be making, you may need to make an adjustment to the miter gauge, or the bevel gauge, or both (for compound cuts). With the miter saw, this includes safety glasses, earplugs, and for some types of material (like MDF), you may want to use a face mask to keep from breathing in too much fine dust. No one wants to be injured, so everyone should use the right gear to help reduce your chances of getting hurt.
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How To Use A Miter Saw For Beginners and DIYersįirst thing you want when prepping to use your miter saw is the proper safety gear. If you need to learn how to use your miter saw, follow this guide and you’ll see just how easy it is to make any of the 4 types of miter saw cuts: Note – If you’re already comfortable using your miter saw and need to improve your miter cutting accuracy, see How To Cut Perfect Miters. You’ll use a good miter saw for doing framework, door casings, furniture building, crown molding, baseboards, and more. It’s a must-have for any do-it-yourselfer. The miter saw is a powerful and versatile tool.
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